Anthony Vaccarello's tenure at Saint Laurent has been a whirlwind of provocative silhouettes, sharp tailoring, and a relentless pursuit of a distinctly modern yet historically rooted aesthetic. His vision, a potent cocktail of rock 'n' roll rebellion and high-fashion elegance, has undeniably reshaped the house's image, earning both fervent praise and critical scrutiny. This article delves into the Vaccarello YSL era, examining his contributions to the house's legacy, his personal style, and the broader context of his career as a designer. We will explore how his designs, often characterized by impeccable mannish tailoring in deep, rich colors like anthracite, black, and plum, have redefined the Saint Laurent woman for a new generation while remaining intrinsically linked to the brand's founding spirit.
Anthony Vaccarello: Saint Laurent's Architect of a New Era
The appointment of Anthony Vaccarello as creative director of Saint Laurent in April 2016 marked a significant turning point for the storied fashion house. Following the departure of Hedi Slimane, whose own era was marked by a distinctly skinny, rock-and-roll aesthetic, Vaccarello inherited a legacy steeped in both bohemian rebellion and sophisticated glamour. His task was not simply to maintain the momentum but to forge a new identity, one that resonated with contemporary sensibilities while honoring the spirit of Yves Saint Laurent himself.
Vaccarello's approach was one of calculated evolution, not revolution. He understood the power of the Saint Laurent archive, its iconic silhouettes, and its enduring appeal. Yet, he also possessed a clear vision of his own, a desire to translate the house's inherent sex appeal into a contemporary language, one less focused on the ultra-skinny aesthetic of his predecessor and more inclusive of a wider range of body types, while still retaining that signature edge.
His debut collection, presented in October 2016, immediately signaled a shift. While retaining the house's signature rock-and-roll attitude, Vaccarello introduced a more overtly feminine sensibility. The emphasis shifted from the overtly skinny to a more powerful, sculpted silhouette. He masterfully incorporated the iconic elements of the Saint Laurent legacy – the tuxedo jacket, the sharp shoulders, the high-waisted trousers – but imbued them with a new, more assertive confidence. The use of deep, saturated colors – the anthracite, black, and plum mentioned earlier – added a sense of drama and sophistication, contributing to the overall feeling of power and elegance.
The double-breasted jackets and wide-legged trousers, often crafted from luxurious fabrics, became signature pieces of the Vaccarello era. These weren't merely garments; they were statements of intention, expressing a sense of assured femininity that felt both contemporary and timeless. The softness of the fabrics, a counterpoint to the sharp tailoring, added a layer of unexpected sensuality, underscoring the designer's ability to create a complex and multi-faceted vision.
Anthony Vaccarello: A Designer's Journey
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